Five Tips For Caring For Your Older Horse

He’s been your equine partner for years now. You’ve perhaps ridden in
shows, through trails or even relocated across the country with your
horse. You’ve been friends a long time, and it may be hard to admit, but
you’ve noticed your horse is slowing down.

Don’t lose heart. Just like with people, advances in health care and
nutrition are helping horses live longer, more productive lives, well into
their senior years. But older horses do take a little extra care. Here’s a
few ways to keep your aging buddy doing his best.

1. Give him light, consistent work. Your horse may not be able to keep
up a workout routine for competitions, but he’s probably not ready to
retire either. Keep him at a reasonable fitness level and he’ll feel and
perform like a younger horse. The worst thing to do is let him get out of
shape and then ride him hard some weekend when he hasn’t been
ridden for months. That’s not fair to him and may spell trouble for you
later.

2. Make sure your horse has regular vet check-ups. Don’t neglect the vet
check-up even if your horse isn’t around many other horses anymore.
Keep him up-to-date on vaccinations, like any horse, and make sure
your vet begins looking for signs of arthritis or soundness issues.
Sometimes cortisone shots given early can not only provide relief for
aching joints, but can prevent further inflammation and stiffness later on.

Continued deworming is also important for the older horse. Horses more
than 20 years old may have intestinal scarring from worm damage that
occurred before modern larvicidal dewormers were available.

Have your veterinarian check your horse’s teeth at least once a year.
The older a horse gets, the more likely his teeth will be worn into sharp
points. They may even be wearing out completely.

3. Consider a senior feed. Older horses do not absorb as many
nutrients from their food as younger horses. Couple that with worn-out,
missing or damaged teeth, and many older horses have difficulty
keeping weight on, especially through the winter months. Several senior
feeds on the market today offer alfalfa-based pellets that are easy for
older horses to chew, swallow and digest.

Many times older horses choose to eat very little hay. The senior feed is
designed to cover all roughage requirements for the horse as well as
provide the ideal vitamin and mineral balance for the older horse. Also,
don’t feed your senior buddy with a younger, more aggressive horse.
You want to make sure he doesn’t have to fight for his fair share.

4. Consider feed supplements. If you’ve never used a feed supplement,
now may be the time. Talk to your veterinarian about what kind of
supplement might be best for your horse. Biotin is great for hooves and
coat. Other supplements can help with energy. Of course, glucosiamine
is the standard supplement to keep joints healthy and lubricated.

5. Give him attention. It’s easy to forget about a horse you can’t use as
much anymore, but if you can’t use him, maybe you should loan his
services to someone who can. Many older, experienced show horses
are great lesson horses. He could give a neighbor’s child a few lessons
a week or stand still while you teach children how to properly groom a
horse. He might be a great mount for a beginner rider, or an adult who
doesn’t want any surprises. You could still take him on the occasional
leisurely ride. Just don’t leave him untouched in a stall for days. At the
very least, give him a buddy and plenty of turnout time.

It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but
when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree
he’s worth it. With the proper care, many horses are living sound,
productive lives well into their 20s.

Learning Horse Riding

It is like nothing you have ever tried in the past. Picture yourself racing up and down hills, though woods, across fields and back. The breeze in your face and pulling at your hair, the sun beats down, and all you can hear, bedsides the sound of yourself laughing and screaming with joy, is the sound of hooves pounding down on hard soil. The speed, the independence, the sense of adventure, few activities in the world can rival horseback riding for real excitement.

Learning how to ride a horse can be loads of fun. Whether you wish to ride for the sense of freedom or you are just a horse lover, it can be very rewarding. With just some essential gear and a good teacher you can be on the way to having hours of fun. There are many different styles of horseback riding. The primary styles are Western and English. Western style is easier to learn and not as strict as the English style. If you are just riding for fun, look for a trainer that will train in the Western style. Although, if you think you might be attracted in riding for show, it might be significant to learn the English style.

When taking horseback riding lessons make certain you let your trainer know that you are a beginner. This way they will put you on a horse that is slower and properly trained. It is important that you get a horse that is effortless to ride for your safety and your confidence.

Numerous books have been written on the subject of horseback riding, but so many of them have gone into such depth, that the novice or the hopeful rider very soon gets bogged down in the technicality.

There is no substitute for appropriate instructions by an expert. If your son or daughter is nagging you into having riding lessons, there are many books on the subject that will get them started, but bear in mind there is no substitute for proper instruction.

When looking for an instructor, it is best to ask around and see who people prefer, do not just respond an advertisement. Many professional instructors will have teaching certifications and first aid experience. Other instructors have just learned themselves and are willing to attempt to teach you. No matter who you choose make sure they have a temperament that you get along with. Also make sure that they teach the style you want to learn.

The equipment you require for the horse is called tack. This includes everything from the saddle to the reins and stirrups. This can be costly to buy on your own. Usually the instructor can provide the equipment. It is important that you check over the saddle and reins before each ride for signs of wear and for a proper fit.

Safety should be your number one concern when learning to ride. Always be sure to wear a helmet and long pants in case you fall. Many people don’t wear a helmet when riding, but it should be required attire for anyone riding a horse.

Learning to ride a horse can bring a enormous sense of freedom. By finding a good instructor and a caring horse you are well on your way. Remember horses are very strong animals so always be sure to wear your helmet and ride with friends. Accidents can take place when you least anticipate them.

Horse Manure Management–What are Your Options?

You need a strategy for using or disposing of your horse’s manure. The proper management of manure is important to the health of your horse and your family. Needless to say, it may also be important in order to comply with state or county regulations. And if you have neighbors nearby, you will want to avoid any controversy with them.

An average 1,000-pound horse can produce 9 tons of manure waste each year. This is roughly 50 pounds per day. If you’re going to store it, this translates to about 2-cubic feet per day or 730-cubic feet per year–just from one horse.

How the manure is stored and treated will have an impact on its value. A composition of manure and bedding is rich in nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. These nutrients can be returned to the soil and made available to pasture, lawns, landscaping, crops, and gardens.

The Importance of Manure Management

Stalls and paddocks need manure removed regularly to prevent surface water contamination and to assist with parasite control and fly breeding. Stable flies commonly breed in the moist horse manure. So it makes sense if you want to keep the fly population down, manage your horse’s manure.

The lifecycle of horse parasites also begins with eggs in the manure, which develop into infective larvae that later exist in your horse’s pasture. Consuming grass, feed, or water contaminated with infective larvae will infect your horse. Parasites are one of the most significant threats to the health of a horse kept in small acreage areas and can cause irreparable internal damage. Manure management is an important part of controlling parasites.

So What Are Your Options for Managing Manure?

Essentially, your choices are to use it on-site, give it away, or haul it off-site.

If you don’t plan to use the manure yourself, you should develop a plan so that other people can make use of it. You may be able to make arrangements with landscapers, nursery or garden centers, parks and neighbors to either buy your unprocessed or composted manure or take it off your hands for free. You may need to deliver the manure yourself.

Manure Collection

Typical management of horse manure consists of removing daily and stockpiling for later use or spreading on cropland.

Manure that is spread daily should be thinly distributed and chain harrowed (dragged) to breakup larger manure piles and to expose parasite eggs to the elements, and to encourage rapid drying. Don’t spread on pastureland that will be grazed by horses during the current year.

Alternatively, manure may be stockpiled and allowed to accumulate until it can be disposed, or composted for later use. A large storage area will allow for better flexibility in timing of manure use.

A 144 square foot enclosed space will contain the manure from one horse for a year. Over time, manure shrinks from decomposition and may accumulate to 3-to-5 feet in deep. Your storage area should be easily accessible for loading and unloading.

The location for the storage area is important in order to safeguard against surface and groundwater contamination. The storage area should be at least 150 feet away from surface water (creeks and ponds) and wells. A perimeter ditch dug around the storage area may be needed to prevent runoff. Covering the storage with either a roof or tarp can help prevent the contamination of both groundwater and surface water.

Some of the newer bedding products are more absorbent allowing you to use less bedding than traditional straw. Using less bedding means you have less waste to manage. Also, don’t use too much bedding and only use the amount necessary to soak up urine and moisture in order to reduce the amount you have to manage.

Composting

Composting manure for 6 months to a year will yield a relatively dry product that is easily handled and reduces the volume of the manure by as much as 40 to 60 percent. This also kills fly eggs, larvae, pathogens and weed seeds.

Aeration will speed the composting process. The rate of decomposition is dependent on how often the pile is turned. An alternative to turning the pile is to insert perforated PVC pipes into the pile to provide aeration. The composting process will take a little longer, but is much less labor intensive. A slow decomposition rate is usually due to a lack of aeration.

The compost pile should remain moist. It may need to be watered or covered to maintain moisture. If small moisture droplets appear when squeezing it in your hand, then the moisture content is sufficient. Compost should be sweet smelling. If an unpleasant odor is coming from the pile, it is too wet and should be kept under a cover to help keep the moisture out.

Composted manure acts as a slow release fertilizer and is a great soil supplement that can be spread on pastures. Manure that has not been composted should be spread only on cropland or other ungrazed, vegetated areas.

Hauling Off-Site

Landfills should only be used if no other option exists. And note, not all landfills will accept manure. Remember, your horse’s manure is a valuable resource and is best used for recycling as opposed to disposing.

There are some refuse/waste companies who specialize in hauling away manure as well as recycle it. This is a good alternative for people who do not have adequate land where manure can be stored or spread. These refuse companies will provide a dumpster and will schedule regular pickups based on your needs.

Love of Horses

My love of horses began at the age of 11 when I worked every summer at a ranch. My twin brother and I would walk about ten miles a day in circles taking children on pony rides. I had never really thought much about horses before that but I was soon hooked for life.

Interestingly I found out years later that my husband’s name, Philip, actually means ‘love of horses’ in Greek.

I, like so many others, discovered the beauty and intelligence and strong connection you can have with horses. They have their own personalities like we do, and if you care to really look, you’ll see they convey a wide range of emotions. They can be happily prancing, angrily stomping, they can demonstrate sadness, and even apathy and defeat. How a horse reacts is determined by how we treat and care for them.

During one of my summers, there was one pony in particular that was docile with people riding him when he had a saddle on his back, but woe be it to anyone who would try to ride him bareback. I found out the hard way when at the end of the day, I took off his saddle and hopped on. Before anyone could say anything, he was off, bucking wildly and trying to bite my legs. I hung on for dear life (it was my first experience being bucked). Of course in the end, he got me off by slamming me into a tree. I had a bruised leg for weeks. That same week I realized he was out to get me! He demonstrated quite a bit of slyness and would suddenly strike out and kick me as I walked past or if I got near he would try to bite me. I realized for the first time that horses were not just work animals and that he was expressing his displeasure with me. I was amazed and developed a new- found respect. I resolved to establish a relationship, and by the summers end, we were working as a team. There was no more kicking or biting.

Throughout history, horses have been loved and revered by pharaohs and kings alike. There is evidence of domesticated horses going back thousands of years. In fact, in ancient Egypt, it is thought that horses were treated better than the Egyptians and that they would even be fed before the Pharaoh himself. This was due to the ancient Arabian horses incredible beauty, speed and endurance and having saved many lives during war. This animal could withstand the harshness of the desert and maintain its beauty and strength.

The Lipizzan Stallion is another incredible beauty, powerful, yet docile horse. It was said that this was the horse Napoleon choose to ride during war. He was not a large man; therefore his stallion was bred to jump straight up in the air so that he could get a better view of what was going on in the field below.

There are so many different breeds of horses, and they are being bred for different things, speed, beauty, work etc. To me they are beautiful, even spiritual and I know there are so many others out there that feel the same as I do. There are even many beautiful horse posters available to adorn ones walls. I think this relation of man and horse will always be there. Enjoy them! I sure do.

Choosing A Horse

Choosing a horse will be one of the most important decisions you ever make so for the sake of both you and the horse – take your time.

At 50 I was a bit older than the average first time horse owner, so should have got it right. I fell in love with a pretty little horse that I had ridden on a riding holiday when he was in his own environment and I was relaxed and had all the time in the world.

9 months later, after a lot of heartache I admitted that he was the wrong horse for my lifestyle and experience and fortunately he was able to go back to his original owner. Pretty traumatic for me, but less so for him as he was going back to where he was happy.

Our livery yard owner helped me decide what type of horse I was looking for by considering the following:

1. My horse riding experience

2. Who I would be able to ride with

3. The grazing, stabling and riding available to me

4. How much time I had for horse care and training

5. How much money I had to buy a horse and care for it

6. What size horse I was comfortable with and was sensible for me

7. Whether I wanted a particular horse breed or colour

We decided that based on the above, a traditional coloured gypsy horse would be ideal and found Amy, a 5 year old ex brood-mare. She was road trained and gentle with lovely paces, but was oblivious to all the standard horse training commands.

2 years on I can’t imagine life without her. She may not be the most beautiful horse around (though I think she is) and with a full time job to fit round her, she adapts to whatever horse care and horse riding routine I need. We have had a lot of fun improving our horse riding skills together and I hope that we will still be doing so for many years to come.

So step back and consider the above points before you choose your horse, as he/she will be relying on you to make the right decision.

Terms For The Horse Lover

Welcome to the delightful world of horses!! It is a wonderful thing to own a horse, to know the joy and unconditional love.

When first becoming involved within the horse world, it is good if you can equip yourself with some basic horse terms to help smooth the way.

No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language.

Stallion – Entire male horse that has been used to father (breed) younger animals.

Colt – Young entire male animal, usually under 3 years old

Gelding – Castrated male animal of any age, no longer able to be bred from.

Mare – Female horse, usually over 3 years old.

Filly – Young female animal, usually under 3 years old, which hasn’t yet been bred from.

Yearling – A young horse that is at least 12 months old but not over 24 months

Weanling – A young horse that has been weaned from its mother but hasn’t reached 12 months of age.

Foal – A baby animal, either female or male that is still nursing from its mother.

Hands High (HH) – Measurement used in telling how high a horse stands. Measured from the ground to the highest point of the wither. There is 4 inches to 1 hand.

Tack – Word used to describe all the equipment used for riding or handling a horse

Saddle – Large piece of tack (usually leather), which helps a rider sit in the correct position when sitting on a horses back. There are many different types including:- western, stock, dressage, jumping and all purpose.

Saddle Blanket – Piece of cloth, which can be padded, placed under the saddle on the horses back to help protect against pressure sores and absorb sweat.

Bridle – A piece of leather (or can be synthetic) which is fitted to a horses head and helps in control when the horse is being ridden.

Bit – A piece of metal which is placed inside a horses mouth and connected to the bridle.

Reins – Long piece attached to the horses bit, which allows the rider some control.

Girth – Is used to tighten around the horse’s middle to secure the saddle.

Stirrup – Normally metal (Stainless Steel), attached to the saddle, where a rider places their foot when riding.

Halter / Head Stall – Placed on a horses head for easy of handling and leading. Can be made out of rope, nylon or leather.

Farrier – Person employed to trim a horse’s hoof or to put shoes on. Similar to a human podiatrist.

Hoof Pick – Instrument used to clean out the bottom of a horses hoof.

Gait – The way in which the horse moves – walk, trot, canter, gallop

Lunging – An exercise where a horse is worked in a circle at any given gait and direction.

Colic – This is a condition which describes any discomfort a horse may have within there stomach.

Lame – Describes a horse that is unable to move correctly due to pain in one or more feet.

Float / Trailer – A specially designed trailer which helps in the transport of horses.

Now that you have learnt some basic horse terms, try working them into a conversation around the barn. You will no longer be an outsider but welcomed into the exciting horse world.

Picking Up A Horse’s Hoof

The idea of picking up a horse’s hooves can intimidate some owners since a well-placed horse kick would really hurt! Such caution is good, but in reality if you pick up a horse’s hoof properly you provide him with no leverage or ability to kick you. This is a situation where a person’s worst fears can cause him to imagine an incident that is highly unlikely to occur with careful handling.
Here’s how to safely pick up a horse’s hoof:
Starting with the front hoof, approach your horse diagonally from his front so that he clearly knows you are there – you don’t want to surprise him. Place yourself even with his shoulder and make sure to face his rear; you will both be facing opposite directions during the hoof picking process.
Making sure that your feet aren’t too close to the horse’s hoof, start running the hand parallel to him down his shoulder and along the length of his leg, finally stopping just above his ankle. Gently grasp the ankle portion and click (or otherwise verbally cue him) to ask him to raise his leg. If he’s well trained, that small cue will be more than enough and he’ll do just what you requested. You’re now free to begin picking his hoof.
If your horse is being a bit stubborn or hasn’t learned how to pick up his legs yet try leaning into his shoulder as you run your hand down the back of his cannon bone. You can also gently squeeze/pinch the tendons to further cue him to what you would like. As you perform these physical cues make sure you provide a verbal one also (I make a clicking sound) so the horse later associates your sound with the requested response. Increase the weight you push against his shoulder until he finally lifts his leg as requested.
When picking a horse’s hoof you want to remove all debris from the hoof clefts as well as the rim and frog. Be careful around the frog because it can sometimes be a bit sensitive, particularly if the horse has thrush.
Once you have finished cleaning the front hoof carefully guide it back to the floor; you don’t want to allow the horse to slam it, potentially hitting your foot in the process. Praise your horse and pat him on the front shoulder a bit so he understands that you are pleased with his cooperation, then run your hand along his back to his rear leg. Place yourself in the same position as you did with his front leg and do the process over again.
There is a slight difference between lifting a rear foot and front foot, even though your basic positioning and actions are nearly identical. When you lift your horse’s rear foot he will probably give a little jerk that you might misinterpret as a kick. This is a common reflex reaction among horses and nothing for you to worry about.
Secondly, when you raise your horse’s rear leg you’ll want to step into him a bit so that your hip is underneath his leg. Rest his leg on your thigh, grab his hoof and gently flex it upwards. By doing this you lend him some support and more importantly the position of his leg and his flexed hoof will prevent him from being able to kick you.
Clean the hoof, lower it cautiously as you did the first and praise him. Congratulations – you’re halfway done! The opposite side will be done exactly the same way, but try to return to his front and start the opposite side rather than move around his rear. It’s bad practice to approach or circle all but the most trusted horses via the rear in such close quarters since a horse would be within range to strike.
When lifting any hoof try to make sure your horse is properly squared (balanced evenly on all four legs) so that when you lift one hoof he can easily balance on his remaining three. At no time should the horse actually lean his weight on you! Even when you rest his rear leg on your thigh you’re not allowing him to use you as a crutch.
Once you have picked your horse’s hooves a few times it will probably become very simple and take less than 5 minutes to clear all hooves. Most trained horses will raise their hoof for you the moment they feel your leg run down their leg.
It is a very good idea to control your horse’s head while you are picking his hooves. This can be done by attaching his halter to crossties or asking a partner hold your horse’s head. By controlling his head you ensure your horse can’t move away from you while you’re trying to pick his hooves, or worse… turn around and take a bite at your rear!

You Can’t Fool A Horse

In the dating world many men and women put their potential partners to a “dog test,” whereby they introduce their date to their dog and see how the dog reacts to the stranger. If the dog reacts badly towards their date then a red flag is waved, whereas if the dog accepts the stranger instantly the opposite holds true. While many people look upon this test in a tongue-in-cheek manner, many dog owners actually do take it seriously. As they probably should!

Many animals, including horses, possess an uncanny ability to detect emotion as well as the inner nature of an individual. Whereas you may be able to slap a forced smile on your face and hide powerful negative emotions such as stress or anger from fellow humans, you won’t find it as easy to fool a horse! In fact I consider horses to be natural truth detectors due to their ability to read a person’s emotional state as well as their sincerity when it comes to a love for equines.

If one of my naturally friendly horses takes an instant dislike to someone out of the blue, 9 times out of 10 I’m going to respect my equine partner’s instincts. Horses generally do not possess vendettas or have reason to target anyone for no real reason – they tend to call them as they see them. If a horse usually takes a liking to visitors but holds a sudden aversion to one in particular, clearly the horse sees or detects something that I may not have initially caught.

When a horse enjoys your company, you’ll know it. When a horse trusts you, you’ll know it. And when a horse actually dislikes you, he will make sure you know it. I often state that the world would be a much better place if people were as brutally honest as horses. But I digress…

A proficient horseman at work should be cool, calm and collected, three essential qualities to maximize the productivity of a training session as well as create an all-around positive aura over human-horse interactions. Keep in mind that you are the horse’s leader, and as such the horse will take his cues from you. If you are agitated the horse will recognize something is wrong and either feel you are angry with him or you are annoyed with something else he cannot detect but probably should be also be concerned about. The horse will not be able to focus on the lesson or your requests well at all, nor will he be able to draw strength from you when he becomes concerned about a foreign object or behavioral request.

It is essential that you try not to visit or work with your horse when you are in a negative frame of mind since these undesirable emotions will disturb your equine partner. Try to take a few minutes, or even hours if necessary, to collect your emotions and clear your mind of life’s daily irritants.

When we see a loved one is feeling down, it often puts a damper on our day too since negativity tends to breed negativity. The same will happen with your horse, so do not underestimate your horse’s ability to detect your feelings.

What Are The 6 Keys To Building A Life Long Partnership With Your Horse?

Most people who have horses would like to develop a quality
relationship with their horse, but only achieve mediocrity,
often accepting this as a good result. Why, because they
put there efforts into becoming experts at riding or
showmanship when they really need to be focusing on becoming
horseman. First you need to develop a base a starting
point you can build on, a base involving both the horse and
you, developing a life long partnership.

If you’re someone who is serious about developing your
horsemanship skills, horse training skills or just want a great
relationship with your horse I would encourage you to (subscribe to The Roundup) examine and then put into practice ALL 6 keys below. It’s essential that you not leave
any of the six out if you’re to realize the end result, a lifetime partnership with your horse that is safe, enjoyable and rewarding.

1. Understanding

You need to understand your horse. To do that you have to
understand how horses think.

2. Mind-set

Your attitude= How you communicate. Being assertive vs.
aggressive and being evenhanded. Your mind-set (attitude)
affects the mind-set (attitude) of your horse.

3. Approach

Helping your horse to understand what it is you want him to
do.

4. Patients

Be patient/tolerant; take the time do it right and you
won’t have to go back and do it again and again.

5. Creativeness

Creating challenges for you and your horse. Learning what
the two of you can accomplish together. Why settle for
mediocrity?

6. Equipment

Having the proper horse equipment, understanding what it’s
for and how it’s used is essential.

For more information on the 6 Keys, and to receive future
issues about horsemanship and you, subscribe to The Roundup
at perfect-horse-gifts.com. You will soon benefit form all
the blockbuster information and the knowledge you’ll gain.

You have permission to publish this article
electronically, in print, in your ebook or on your web site
free of charge, as long as the content of this article is not
changed in anyway and the author bylines are included.

The Top Ten Reasons You Can – And Should – Hold an Equine Educational Event

Boarding, Breeding, Training & Showing Stables:

1. You need to fill stalls.

2. You want to generate some public awareness about your operation.

3. You want to create new potential clients.

4. You want to separate your operation from your competitors’.

5. You want to establish yourself as an authority to local equestrians.

6. You want to make some cash on the side.

7. You want to sell a few horses, either for yourself, or for clients.

8. You want to promote your trainer, sell riding more riding lessons or bring in more horses for training or showing.

9. You need to sell breedings.

10. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public in your community.

Riding Instructors and Trainers

1. You want to increase your income by selling more lessons.

2. You want to fill stalls in your training barn.

3. You have a client with a horse for sale.

4. You want to have a career with horses, instead of just having a “real job,” and a few lessons or horses on the side.

5. You want to establish yourself as an authority in your field in your area.

6. You want to get established in a particular stable or barn.

7. You need to make some “quick cash” for a major purchase.

8. You need to have some additional income for an added expense.

9. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public in your community.

10. You want to establish your own stable.

11. You need more clients!

Tack Shops, Feed Stores, Etc.

1. You want to establish your store as an authority in your area – somewhere that people go to get good information and service.

2. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public.

3. You want to create some “press” about your business.

4. You want to be known as a business that helps local horsemen buy, sell, and do whatever they do better than they did it before.

5. You want to separate your business from the competition.

6. You want to expand your business, either by selling more stuff, moving to a larger facility, or by creating more customers.

7. You want to create more customers for your current clientele.

8. You want to create a side business.

9. You are a start-up business, and you want to establish it in the community without spending a lot of time and money.

10. You are looking for strategic business partners.

Horse Rescue Groups

1. You need to raise some money.

2. You need to create some public awareness about your facility, group and efforts.

3. You want to raise public awareness about the reality of horseownership.

4. You want to get more people involved in your effort.

5. You have horses (and/or other animals) that need foster or adoptive homes.

6. You have volunteers that need something to do.

Non-equine Careered Individuals

1. You want to create a new career for yourself with horses without investing huge amounts of money or time.

2. You want to do something that will support your “horse habit.”

3. You don’t want to change careers, you just want something that will make some extra money and allow you to work with horses.

4. You have a horse you are trying to sell.

5. You have an acquaintance that has a horse for sale.

6. You want to start a part or full time business working with people and/or their horses.