Love of Horses

My love of horses began at the age of 11 when I worked every summer at a ranch. My twin brother and I would walk about ten miles a day in circles taking children on pony rides. I had never really thought much about horses before that but I was soon hooked for life.

Interestingly I found out years later that my husband’s name, Philip, actually means ‘love of horses’ in Greek.

I, like so many others, discovered the beauty and intelligence and strong connection you can have with horses. They have their own personalities like we do, and if you care to really look, you’ll see they convey a wide range of emotions. They can be happily prancing, angrily stomping, they can demonstrate sadness, and even apathy and defeat. How a horse reacts is determined by how we treat and care for them.

During one of my summers, there was one pony in particular that was docile with people riding him when he had a saddle on his back, but woe be it to anyone who would try to ride him bareback. I found out the hard way when at the end of the day, I took off his saddle and hopped on. Before anyone could say anything, he was off, bucking wildly and trying to bite my legs. I hung on for dear life (it was my first experience being bucked). Of course in the end, he got me off by slamming me into a tree. I had a bruised leg for weeks. That same week I realized he was out to get me! He demonstrated quite a bit of slyness and would suddenly strike out and kick me as I walked past or if I got near he would try to bite me. I realized for the first time that horses were not just work animals and that he was expressing his displeasure with me. I was amazed and developed a new- found respect. I resolved to establish a relationship, and by the summers end, we were working as a team. There was no more kicking or biting.

Throughout history, horses have been loved and revered by pharaohs and kings alike. There is evidence of domesticated horses going back thousands of years. In fact, in ancient Egypt, it is thought that horses were treated better than the Egyptians and that they would even be fed before the Pharaoh himself. This was due to the ancient Arabian horses incredible beauty, speed and endurance and having saved many lives during war. This animal could withstand the harshness of the desert and maintain its beauty and strength.

The Lipizzan Stallion is another incredible beauty, powerful, yet docile horse. It was said that this was the horse Napoleon choose to ride during war. He was not a large man; therefore his stallion was bred to jump straight up in the air so that he could get a better view of what was going on in the field below.

There are so many different breeds of horses, and they are being bred for different things, speed, beauty, work etc. To me they are beautiful, even spiritual and I know there are so many others out there that feel the same as I do. There are even many beautiful horse posters available to adorn ones walls. I think this relation of man and horse will always be there. Enjoy them! I sure do.

Choosing A Horse

Choosing a horse will be one of the most important decisions you ever make so for the sake of both you and the horse – take your time.

At 50 I was a bit older than the average first time horse owner, so should have got it right. I fell in love with a pretty little horse that I had ridden on a riding holiday when he was in his own environment and I was relaxed and had all the time in the world.

9 months later, after a lot of heartache I admitted that he was the wrong horse for my lifestyle and experience and fortunately he was able to go back to his original owner. Pretty traumatic for me, but less so for him as he was going back to where he was happy.

Our livery yard owner helped me decide what type of horse I was looking for by considering the following:

1. My horse riding experience

2. Who I would be able to ride with

3. The grazing, stabling and riding available to me

4. How much time I had for horse care and training

5. How much money I had to buy a horse and care for it

6. What size horse I was comfortable with and was sensible for me

7. Whether I wanted a particular horse breed or colour

We decided that based on the above, a traditional coloured gypsy horse would be ideal and found Amy, a 5 year old ex brood-mare. She was road trained and gentle with lovely paces, but was oblivious to all the standard horse training commands.

2 years on I can’t imagine life without her. She may not be the most beautiful horse around (though I think she is) and with a full time job to fit round her, she adapts to whatever horse care and horse riding routine I need. We have had a lot of fun improving our horse riding skills together and I hope that we will still be doing so for many years to come.

So step back and consider the above points before you choose your horse, as he/she will be relying on you to make the right decision.

Terms For The Horse Lover

Welcome to the delightful world of horses!! It is a wonderful thing to own a horse, to know the joy and unconditional love.

When first becoming involved within the horse world, it is good if you can equip yourself with some basic horse terms to help smooth the way.

No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language.

Stallion – Entire male horse that has been used to father (breed) younger animals.

Colt – Young entire male animal, usually under 3 years old

Gelding – Castrated male animal of any age, no longer able to be bred from.

Mare – Female horse, usually over 3 years old.

Filly – Young female animal, usually under 3 years old, which hasn’t yet been bred from.

Yearling – A young horse that is at least 12 months old but not over 24 months

Weanling – A young horse that has been weaned from its mother but hasn’t reached 12 months of age.

Foal – A baby animal, either female or male that is still nursing from its mother.

Hands High (HH) – Measurement used in telling how high a horse stands. Measured from the ground to the highest point of the wither. There is 4 inches to 1 hand.

Tack – Word used to describe all the equipment used for riding or handling a horse

Saddle – Large piece of tack (usually leather), which helps a rider sit in the correct position when sitting on a horses back. There are many different types including:- western, stock, dressage, jumping and all purpose.

Saddle Blanket – Piece of cloth, which can be padded, placed under the saddle on the horses back to help protect against pressure sores and absorb sweat.

Bridle – A piece of leather (or can be synthetic) which is fitted to a horses head and helps in control when the horse is being ridden.

Bit – A piece of metal which is placed inside a horses mouth and connected to the bridle.

Reins – Long piece attached to the horses bit, which allows the rider some control.

Girth – Is used to tighten around the horse’s middle to secure the saddle.

Stirrup – Normally metal (Stainless Steel), attached to the saddle, where a rider places their foot when riding.

Halter / Head Stall – Placed on a horses head for easy of handling and leading. Can be made out of rope, nylon or leather.

Farrier – Person employed to trim a horse’s hoof or to put shoes on. Similar to a human podiatrist.

Hoof Pick – Instrument used to clean out the bottom of a horses hoof.

Gait – The way in which the horse moves – walk, trot, canter, gallop

Lunging – An exercise where a horse is worked in a circle at any given gait and direction.

Colic – This is a condition which describes any discomfort a horse may have within there stomach.

Lame – Describes a horse that is unable to move correctly due to pain in one or more feet.

Float / Trailer – A specially designed trailer which helps in the transport of horses.

Now that you have learnt some basic horse terms, try working them into a conversation around the barn. You will no longer be an outsider but welcomed into the exciting horse world.

Picking Up A Horse’s Hoof

The idea of picking up a horse’s hooves can intimidate some owners since a well-placed horse kick would really hurt! Such caution is good, but in reality if you pick up a horse’s hoof properly you provide him with no leverage or ability to kick you. This is a situation where a person’s worst fears can cause him to imagine an incident that is highly unlikely to occur with careful handling.
Here’s how to safely pick up a horse’s hoof:
Starting with the front hoof, approach your horse diagonally from his front so that he clearly knows you are there – you don’t want to surprise him. Place yourself even with his shoulder and make sure to face his rear; you will both be facing opposite directions during the hoof picking process.
Making sure that your feet aren’t too close to the horse’s hoof, start running the hand parallel to him down his shoulder and along the length of his leg, finally stopping just above his ankle. Gently grasp the ankle portion and click (or otherwise verbally cue him) to ask him to raise his leg. If he’s well trained, that small cue will be more than enough and he’ll do just what you requested. You’re now free to begin picking his hoof.
If your horse is being a bit stubborn or hasn’t learned how to pick up his legs yet try leaning into his shoulder as you run your hand down the back of his cannon bone. You can also gently squeeze/pinch the tendons to further cue him to what you would like. As you perform these physical cues make sure you provide a verbal one also (I make a clicking sound) so the horse later associates your sound with the requested response. Increase the weight you push against his shoulder until he finally lifts his leg as requested.
When picking a horse’s hoof you want to remove all debris from the hoof clefts as well as the rim and frog. Be careful around the frog because it can sometimes be a bit sensitive, particularly if the horse has thrush.
Once you have finished cleaning the front hoof carefully guide it back to the floor; you don’t want to allow the horse to slam it, potentially hitting your foot in the process. Praise your horse and pat him on the front shoulder a bit so he understands that you are pleased with his cooperation, then run your hand along his back to his rear leg. Place yourself in the same position as you did with his front leg and do the process over again.
There is a slight difference between lifting a rear foot and front foot, even though your basic positioning and actions are nearly identical. When you lift your horse’s rear foot he will probably give a little jerk that you might misinterpret as a kick. This is a common reflex reaction among horses and nothing for you to worry about.
Secondly, when you raise your horse’s rear leg you’ll want to step into him a bit so that your hip is underneath his leg. Rest his leg on your thigh, grab his hoof and gently flex it upwards. By doing this you lend him some support and more importantly the position of his leg and his flexed hoof will prevent him from being able to kick you.
Clean the hoof, lower it cautiously as you did the first and praise him. Congratulations – you’re halfway done! The opposite side will be done exactly the same way, but try to return to his front and start the opposite side rather than move around his rear. It’s bad practice to approach or circle all but the most trusted horses via the rear in such close quarters since a horse would be within range to strike.
When lifting any hoof try to make sure your horse is properly squared (balanced evenly on all four legs) so that when you lift one hoof he can easily balance on his remaining three. At no time should the horse actually lean his weight on you! Even when you rest his rear leg on your thigh you’re not allowing him to use you as a crutch.
Once you have picked your horse’s hooves a few times it will probably become very simple and take less than 5 minutes to clear all hooves. Most trained horses will raise their hoof for you the moment they feel your leg run down their leg.
It is a very good idea to control your horse’s head while you are picking his hooves. This can be done by attaching his halter to crossties or asking a partner hold your horse’s head. By controlling his head you ensure your horse can’t move away from you while you’re trying to pick his hooves, or worse… turn around and take a bite at your rear!

You Can’t Fool A Horse

In the dating world many men and women put their potential partners to a “dog test,” whereby they introduce their date to their dog and see how the dog reacts to the stranger. If the dog reacts badly towards their date then a red flag is waved, whereas if the dog accepts the stranger instantly the opposite holds true. While many people look upon this test in a tongue-in-cheek manner, many dog owners actually do take it seriously. As they probably should!

Many animals, including horses, possess an uncanny ability to detect emotion as well as the inner nature of an individual. Whereas you may be able to slap a forced smile on your face and hide powerful negative emotions such as stress or anger from fellow humans, you won’t find it as easy to fool a horse! In fact I consider horses to be natural truth detectors due to their ability to read a person’s emotional state as well as their sincerity when it comes to a love for equines.

If one of my naturally friendly horses takes an instant dislike to someone out of the blue, 9 times out of 10 I’m going to respect my equine partner’s instincts. Horses generally do not possess vendettas or have reason to target anyone for no real reason – they tend to call them as they see them. If a horse usually takes a liking to visitors but holds a sudden aversion to one in particular, clearly the horse sees or detects something that I may not have initially caught.

When a horse enjoys your company, you’ll know it. When a horse trusts you, you’ll know it. And when a horse actually dislikes you, he will make sure you know it. I often state that the world would be a much better place if people were as brutally honest as horses. But I digress…

A proficient horseman at work should be cool, calm and collected, three essential qualities to maximize the productivity of a training session as well as create an all-around positive aura over human-horse interactions. Keep in mind that you are the horse’s leader, and as such the horse will take his cues from you. If you are agitated the horse will recognize something is wrong and either feel you are angry with him or you are annoyed with something else he cannot detect but probably should be also be concerned about. The horse will not be able to focus on the lesson or your requests well at all, nor will he be able to draw strength from you when he becomes concerned about a foreign object or behavioral request.

It is essential that you try not to visit or work with your horse when you are in a negative frame of mind since these undesirable emotions will disturb your equine partner. Try to take a few minutes, or even hours if necessary, to collect your emotions and clear your mind of life’s daily irritants.

When we see a loved one is feeling down, it often puts a damper on our day too since negativity tends to breed negativity. The same will happen with your horse, so do not underestimate your horse’s ability to detect your feelings.

What Are The 6 Keys To Building A Life Long Partnership With Your Horse?

Most people who have horses would like to develop a quality
relationship with their horse, but only achieve mediocrity,
often accepting this as a good result. Why, because they
put there efforts into becoming experts at riding or
showmanship when they really need to be focusing on becoming
horseman. First you need to develop a base a starting
point you can build on, a base involving both the horse and
you, developing a life long partnership.

If you’re someone who is serious about developing your
horsemanship skills, horse training skills or just want a great
relationship with your horse I would encourage you to (subscribe to The Roundup) examine and then put into practice ALL 6 keys below. It’s essential that you not leave
any of the six out if you’re to realize the end result, a lifetime partnership with your horse that is safe, enjoyable and rewarding.

1. Understanding

You need to understand your horse. To do that you have to
understand how horses think.

2. Mind-set

Your attitude= How you communicate. Being assertive vs.
aggressive and being evenhanded. Your mind-set (attitude)
affects the mind-set (attitude) of your horse.

3. Approach

Helping your horse to understand what it is you want him to
do.

4. Patients

Be patient/tolerant; take the time do it right and you
won’t have to go back and do it again and again.

5. Creativeness

Creating challenges for you and your horse. Learning what
the two of you can accomplish together. Why settle for
mediocrity?

6. Equipment

Having the proper horse equipment, understanding what it’s
for and how it’s used is essential.

For more information on the 6 Keys, and to receive future
issues about horsemanship and you, subscribe to The Roundup
at perfect-horse-gifts.com. You will soon benefit form all
the blockbuster information and the knowledge you’ll gain.

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The Top Ten Reasons You Can – And Should – Hold an Equine Educational Event

Boarding, Breeding, Training & Showing Stables:

1. You need to fill stalls.

2. You want to generate some public awareness about your operation.

3. You want to create new potential clients.

4. You want to separate your operation from your competitors’.

5. You want to establish yourself as an authority to local equestrians.

6. You want to make some cash on the side.

7. You want to sell a few horses, either for yourself, or for clients.

8. You want to promote your trainer, sell riding more riding lessons or bring in more horses for training or showing.

9. You need to sell breedings.

10. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public in your community.

Riding Instructors and Trainers

1. You want to increase your income by selling more lessons.

2. You want to fill stalls in your training barn.

3. You have a client with a horse for sale.

4. You want to have a career with horses, instead of just having a “real job,” and a few lessons or horses on the side.

5. You want to establish yourself as an authority in your field in your area.

6. You want to get established in a particular stable or barn.

7. You need to make some “quick cash” for a major purchase.

8. You need to have some additional income for an added expense.

9. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public in your community.

10. You want to establish your own stable.

11. You need more clients!

Tack Shops, Feed Stores, Etc.

1. You want to establish your store as an authority in your area – somewhere that people go to get good information and service.

2. You want to create new services to offer both horsemen and the general public.

3. You want to create some “press” about your business.

4. You want to be known as a business that helps local horsemen buy, sell, and do whatever they do better than they did it before.

5. You want to separate your business from the competition.

6. You want to expand your business, either by selling more stuff, moving to a larger facility, or by creating more customers.

7. You want to create more customers for your current clientele.

8. You want to create a side business.

9. You are a start-up business, and you want to establish it in the community without spending a lot of time and money.

10. You are looking for strategic business partners.

Horse Rescue Groups

1. You need to raise some money.

2. You need to create some public awareness about your facility, group and efforts.

3. You want to raise public awareness about the reality of horseownership.

4. You want to get more people involved in your effort.

5. You have horses (and/or other animals) that need foster or adoptive homes.

6. You have volunteers that need something to do.

Non-equine Careered Individuals

1. You want to create a new career for yourself with horses without investing huge amounts of money or time.

2. You want to do something that will support your “horse habit.”

3. You don’t want to change careers, you just want something that will make some extra money and allow you to work with horses.

4. You have a horse you are trying to sell.

5. You have an acquaintance that has a horse for sale.

6. You want to start a part or full time business working with people and/or their horses.

*Understanding* – The First Of The 6 Keys To Building A Life Long Partnership With Your Horse

Yesterday we talked a little about the 6 Keys for a
Life Long Partnership with your horse, today I would
like to visit with you about the first key,
*Understanding.*

Have you ever wondered why your horse acts like he does
how he thinks and moves? If so, then you need to
understand the prey-predator relationship, but before
we start it’s important that you understand, if your
going to effectively communicate with horses you need
to *think like horses*. You need to look at and approach
everything from the *horse’s point of view*.

If you understand that horses are prey animals and that
*horses perceive people as predators* and realize that
each thinks differently, you can begin to understand how
your horse thinks, acts and moves, and why you react the
way you do. Understand, Both the horse and human are
simply considering all factors then adjusting to the
situation.

If you understand that horses are Prey animals by nature,
are programmed to be cowards and are herd fear-flight
animals, in other words when they perceive danger they
run and continue running until they feel they have
escaped the danger, then you can begin to develop a
deeper apreciation of why your horse acts, thinks and
moves like he does.

To horses we *humans* look and smell like *predators*.
If your going to communicate with your horse in an
effective manner then it’s necessary to prove to your
horse that you are not a predator. You need to
understand what type of behavior you need to show if
you are to get a certain behavior from your horse.

Once the horse accepts that you are not as bad as you
seem and you are not a predator he becomes gentle, in
other words he no longer perceives you to be dangerous.

In a herd of horses there is always a pecking order
and once your horse decides that you are not a danger
to him he will put you in a pecking order to fit into
his world (remember all of this is about the horse his
world and perceptions not yours) you will be placed
higher or lower depending on respect and authority.

*Remember the horse is a prey animal and is supposed to
act the way he does.** It’s your task to help him act
less like a prey animal and more like a partner. To
accomplish this you need your horse to be sensitive or
aware of your cues and communication rather than danger.

You need to turn his flight from fear reaction into
forward motion or impulsion. You have to work at getting
him to want to be with you, to take the herd instinct
and turn it into bonding with you.

The concepts you and I have discussed today are much
easier said than done. Why, because horses and humans
think differently and this is often a source of
conflict.

Let’s wrap up what we have discussed today. You will
gain respect from our horse if you uphold your
responsibilities which are: Not act like a predator,
be where you need to be emotionally when communicating
with our horse, to think like a horse and not a human
and focus on where you are headed and what you want to
do, if you do your horse will sense this, respect you
and follow you as the leader.

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In the next article we will discuss Mind Set; Your
Attitude= How you communicate. Being assertive
vs.aggressive and being evenhanded. Your mind-set
(attitude) affects the mind-set (attitude) of your
horse.

Copyright © Mike Gorzalka All Rights Reserved
Worldwide

*You have permission to publish this article electronically, in print, in your ebook or on your web
site, free of charge, as long as the content of this
article is not changed in any way and the author
bylines are included.

Afraid to Buy a Horse at Public Auction?

Here are 5 things to do to put the odds of getting a good horse in your favor.

Let me share a short story with you about public horse auctions and my friend Jack.

I’ll show you how to buy a horse at auction so you won’t get burned. Jack, an old time horse trader and I use to travel to horse auction all over the state. I’d just watch Jack and maybe later ask my questions.

Jack was usually pretty closed mouthed, but he let me in on his secrets to buying good horses at auctions.

#1 Arrive at the auction real early like 3 hours or more before the auction starts.

You want to be there as the horses arrive, so you can see who brings them and how they unload and walk to their pen.

Who brings the horse? A horse trader, private party, woman, man, kid, also how many horses did they bring? You need to know this so you have a clue as to who you will possibly be buying from and who to talk to about the horse before you bid.

#2 If you see a horse you like the looks of, go to the horses holding pen.

Watch the horse and how he moves. If the horse is tied up in the pen this could mean trouble as the horse owner might not want you to see the horse move. Check the horse for blemishes and soundness, make sure the legs are clean and the hooves are healthy and maintained, there should not be any limping or signs of lameness.

I do not like scars, divots or bumps on the head and neck, This shows the horse has been in a wreck of some kind, which could mean the horse is prone to panic, I’ve been stuck with a couple of panic prone horses and they did hurt me. If you don’t know about lame horses and what to watch out for, take someone with you who does or don’t bid.

Now the horse should show signs of life maybe be a little bit excited, what with all the other horses and the new surroundings, if not you could be looking at a drugged horse.

#3 Talk to the person that brought the horse

you know this person because you seen them arrive. Make sure they are the owner of the horse, if not who are they? The standard stories are:

It’s my neighbors horse, this often means it is my horse but I am not going to admit it to you, as I don’t want to be held accountable for the lies I’m about to tell you.

Or I’m a dealer trying to pass off this horse as a good old horse so gentle to ride, the neighbor kid rode bareback on the road when in reality it’s a dink horse that he can’t sell off his trading string.

Jack use to saddle up to the person who brought the horse and softly ask; say can you tell me a little bit about your horse? ( then he SHUT UP! ). They would tell all the nice things about the horse and Jack would just look at the horse, not saying a word. After they got through the string of lies or half truths, they would start getting nervous because it was so quite they thought they had to ramble on some more and that’s when a bit more of the truth starts to show up, yeah old Barley don’t buck except that one time when he broke my collar bone opps…

#4 Follow the horse from the pen to the sale ring

Jack use to walk right into the sale ring with the horse and watch it move in the ring too. The other advantage is you can see who is bidding. The owner or someone with them may be running up the bid, you know this because you seen them arrive right?

Now you may not be able to get in the ring but you can stand next to it so you can see the horse and the crowd too. Most owners try too hard to get their horse to ride well in the ring which is usually too small to work a horse in anyway so you get to see how the horse responds under pressure. Watch for rearing, head tossing, humping up or crow hopping, usually the small size of the ring prevents them from bucking.

#5 If you still like the horse bid on it.

How much? Jack would only pay about $15 to $20 above killer price. How much is that? You need to snoop around before the sale and ask the dealers or auctioneer, I’ve seen it range from 15 cents to 1 dollar a pound, so that could mean from $150 to $1000 for a 1000 pound riding horse.

Jack was comfortable paying that price as he would take the horse home, try them out, if there was a problem he would run them through the next auction and not get hurt too bad, out $20 at most.

This works good if you, your wife, or kids don’t fall in love with old Barley, Jack use to say if you don’t send them right back to the auction. you end up with a field full of cripples and buckers.

You can get a nice horse at a rock bottom price following this method. My experience has been that I can get older well trained horses that people are bailing out on because the kids all left home and they don’t want to feed the horse any more, or they just were flash in the pan horsemen and need the money for a quad runner.

I have also bought young unbroke horses that people do not have the skill to train, if you think you want a go at that, make sure you have a medical plan and go for it.

I do not pay top dollar for exceptional horses at auctions because, again experience has taught me there are no exceptional horse at these auctions, if you think there are some there, look close as there is usually a hole in them somewhere.

Now put this plan into action and you will find a nice horse that you can use and even make a profit on if you so choose at some time in the future, just do all the steps and you will get the successful results.

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How I Get More Training Done on My Horses in Half the Time

Here’s a simple way… to help your horse learn twice as fast.

We are all pressed for time, seems there is just not enough of it. There is the job, family duties, maybe social events, all competing for our time. Our horse is ignored and we end up with a 10 year old “greenbroke” horse, which can mean anything from they buck or, spook sometimes, to they still need to be gee-hawed to go left, or right. They may still be trying to figure out go and whoa. Well I have found some easy ways to double the results I get when training horses, you can do the same if you will try.

Tip #1 – Rub you horse all over

You must be able to rub your horse from one end to the other, neither end is more important than the other. You should, be able to handle the mouth and ears as well a rubbing under the tail, start stroking with the hair on each side of the tail. When the horse unclamps the tail and raises it, you can then rub under the tail.

You must be able to do this or you may have to go back and redo the training later, like I did. I had a paint stallion in for training and he already had four months put on him by an other trainer, but he still was spooky and not a nice ride at all. I noticed that he did not like his ears touched but I was trying to hurry and moved on. Three weeks later he threw himself over backwards while being bridled. You better believe I spent about three days on ears 101, then bang he got it and changed, was one laid-back easygoing pussycat from then on.

Be smart and learn to rub your horse, rub don’t pat or slap them, that is not soothing to them. What would you like a back rub or a back slapping?

Tip #2 – Stop punishment when wanted behavior occurs.

Whoa! you say, what’s this punishment talk? Well I would like you to realize there are a multitude of things we do to a horse that are “punishment” in the horses mind, maybe not your mind, but definitely in the horses mind.

Here is a little list of punishments according to the horse:

1. pulling on a rein
2. using a spur
3. using a quirt or whip
4. using a stud chain

Do I want you to quit using the above? No, just stop using them when the horse does anything close to what you want. Let me give you some examples;

You pull the left rein to turn your horse left, the second he starts left quit pulling, if you want to turn left more ask again, as many times as you need to but reward the horse for the try.

You put your spur against your horse to move over, when he moves the slightest amount take that spur out of there, do it again if you have to, but reward that try and soon you won’t even need to wear those spurs as the horse will move off your leg, because you reward that try.

Tip #3 – Reward your horse for the right behavior.

Now you can consider the end of punishment as a reward, and that is true, but the term reward will be used to mean giving something extra to the horse for trying to do the “right” thing. If you can find a way to reward the try in the horse, you will have your dream horse, that partner you wanted or some of you maybe had as a kid. Kids can be givers easier than adults, my grandson gave me a kiss today, my brother never did, because he was almost an adult when I was born. Learn to be a kid again, reward your horse with:

some grain

a soothing voice

a rub on the neck

a drink of clean cool water

a handful of grass

a modern horse treat

a chunk of carrot

a slice of apple

getting off his back

The list is almost endless, the trick is to give the reward at the right time for the right behavior. quit training at the good spots

If you will take the time to follow these tips, you can double the size of your horse training toolbox. You probably already know the punishment side of training use it right and add the reward side to double your training results.

Put your ego aside, be a giver to your horse and they will give back to you in ways you can only imagine.

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